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| GODSPEED, Fantome |
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| In Tribute to the SV FANTOME |
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| Fantome photo courtesy of Windjammer Barefoot Cruises |
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| Diary of the Total Solar Eclipse Cruise abroad the Windjammer, Fantome |
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| February 22 - 28, 1998 |
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| Sunday, February 22, 1998 - Travel day from Philadelphia. We arrived in Antigua at 6:00pm and headed over to the Fantome. After checking in, it was time for a wonderful buffet dinner on deck, then off to check out the Legacy for the Stowaway Party. The Legacy is a beautiful, newly built steel sailing ship, but due to insurance regulations, is missing all the lovely wood we love on the older ships. We had a foo-foo cruise ship tied up at the dock also. |
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| Monday, February 23, 1998 - Dawned bright & sunny and we went off to find the storyboard and breakfast. The foo-foo cruise ship had left and was replaced by the foo-foo Club Med 1, a sailing ship wanna-be. At Storytime, Captain Casey told us a little about the history of Antigua and the island tour offered for the morning. We decided to do the tour and off we went to Nelson's Dockyards and Shirley Heights. This is the most southerly point on Antigua with a splendid view of English Harbor and Eric Clapton's "summer" place. We arrived back at the ship for lunch buffet on deck and cast off for St. Barth's around 1pm. Unfortunately we promptly ran aground on a sand bar and had to be winched back to the dock to try again, much to the amusement of the crew of Club Med 1. This time we cast off successfully and proudly sailed away to the strains of Amazing Grace. The day was spent at sea. We had some scattered rain showers and a nice easy, quiet sail. We expected to arrive at St. Barth's around dawn on Tuesday. After dinner, we lounged the night away on deck looking at the most incredible starry sky. There were stars I had never seen before blazing away in the heavens. A truly incredible sight. We went to bed to the gentle rolling of a ship under sail. |
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| Tuesday, February 24, 1998 - Awoke at 6am to find us arriving at St. Barth's with the Legacy close behind. The Polynesia was already anchored in the harbor. Watched a beautiful sunrise over the hills of St. Barth's, then found the storyboard and headed to breakfast. At Storytime, Capt. Casey told us about the day's activities and a little about St. Barth's. We opted to hike over to the airport. Well, this hike involved walking up and over pretty steep ridge and down into a valley where the airport was. In order to land at the airport, planes have to transverse a narrow pass thru two ridges. It is quite exciting to be seated on a rock at the top of the pass and have a plane come in right over your head and then drop "like a stone" down to the airport. We stayed at the top point for a while and watched the cars at this intersection. The easiest way to describe it would be "ordered chaos". There is no stop sign or traffic light and it appeared to be every man for himself. We headed back to the ship, stopping at the lighthouse along the way for some Kodak moments. |
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| At 4pm we all headed back to St. Barth's main drag for the CARNIVAL parade. This was a miniature version of Mardi Gras. All the beautiful French natives dressed up in outlandish costumes and paraded for us tourists…what a hoot! After dinner, many of our shipmates headed back ashore for the CARNIVAL party at one of the local pubs. The Windjammer fleet takes over this pub and closes off the street and a good time is had by all, shipmates and natives alike. |
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| Wednesday, February 25, 1998 - Woke up to find us at the most beautiful island yet - St. Kitts. Found the storyboard for the day's activities and opted for the Rainforest Hike that afternoon. After breakfast was Storytime with Capt. Casey. This morning we discovered we had a retired astronaut on board. "Pinky" Nelson had flown aboard the Challenger, Columbia and the Discovery. During the trip he had just introduced himself to people as a solar astronomer. (Pinky is currently on leave from the University of Washington to become Deputy Director of Project 2061 for the American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS). This is a program to improve science education from grades K-12. If you would like more info on Project 2061, visit: http://project2061.aaas.org/ ) Capt. Casey promised us two talks by Dr. Nelson, one that evening and one the next day. The Capt. also announced that we would be at sea on Thursday for the Eclipse, between Guadeloupe and Montserrat. This was met by thunderous applause from all assembled and turned out to be the right decision. After Storytime, we decided to share a cab with two shipmates, Charles and Natasha, and take a whirlwind tour of the island, starting to the Southeast on their 8 million dollar road to nowhere. This road transverses a beautiful mountain following along the ridge and sides. Our taxi driver, Martin, was very knowledgeable and friendly. There were many Kodak moments to be had. After we got to the end of this road, we turned around and headed back to the other end of the island to visit Brimstone Hill Fortress. What views! |
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| Back to the ship for a quick lunch and then off again to the Rainforest Hike. This hike took us first to a secluded valley to view rock carvings left by the Carib Indians hundreds of years ago. Then we stopped at Caribelle Batik to stock up on the softest, most beautiful handmade batiks I've seen. The Sea Island Cotton is hand dyed and then made into scarves, blouses, skirts, you name it. The Rainforest hike took us into the St. Kitts rainforest. Here we saw a diversity of plants, many birds and evidence of green monkeys. Our very knowledge guide explained how the plants were used for medicinal purposes and their many other uses as well. After dinner we set sail for Montserrat. Dr. Nelson, our Astronomer/astronaut, gave a wonderful talk about what life is "really like" aboard the Space Shuttle. When someone asked what's it like to walk in space, he replied "It's great! Everyone should try it!!!!" Everyone headed off to bed dreaming of Eclispe Day on Thursday! |
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| Thursday, February 26, 1998 - ECLISPE DAY! Many of us had been waiting three years for this moment! You could feel the anticipation in the air!! We were situated somewhere between Guadeloupe and Montserrat, which was spitting and sputtering.. After Storytime, Dr. Nelson gave another enchanting talk about the Solar System and the "Big Bang" theory. He spoke in laymen's terms that us commoners could understand. We were all spell-bound. Afterwards we just floated around under sail watching all the various ships and small boats appear on the horizon. Club Med 1 had dogged us all week and showed up right on schedule. The Windjammer ships, Polynesia, Mandalay and Legacy were there also. It was like rush hour in the Caribbean. Bill and I were situated at the stern, near a group of astronomy buffs. At approximately 1:50, someone yelled "First Contact", we all ran for our eye protection and the fun began. People around us had been to other eclipses and tried, unsuccessfully, to describe what we were about the experience. Totality would be at 2:34 and last about 3-1/2 minutes. |
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| We had some clouds a little too near the sun for comfort, but we lucked out and they didn't interfere with the Eclipse. We decided to watch the clouds on the horizon to see if we could see the shadow before it was over us. The shadow band was traveling at 1,000 mph, so we only had seconds. At precisely 2:34 (give or take a second) the horizon clouds went dark and then it was as tho someone turned out the lights. It didn’t get pitch black as some described, but it got dark enough!! Totality is simply amazing and awe-inspiring. We could clearly see the corona and solar flares were everywhere. Jupiter, Mercury and Venus were also visible near the sun. Right at the end, Bailey's Beads appeared and then, as if that wasn't enough, a spectacular Diamond Ring! Then it was over…and the lights came back on! The Eclipse was celebrated with a champagne toast for all on board, provided by |
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| Windjammer! Several of the male passengers got together and mooned the sun in honor of the Eclipse. A sight I'll never see again in my lifetime! We were told that many people who opted to go to the beach on Guadaloupe, including Dr. Hale, lost the eclipse to the clouds and didn't see totality. What a bummer! Montserrat, remember Montserrat? Decided not to be outdone by the sun and let loose with an eruption, which sent a column of smoke and ash high into the sky. What a sight! We were 8 miles off-shore, so we were safe. We set sail for Nevis and got amazing views of the lava flows and the destruction the volcano had done to this beautiful little island. A beautiful sunset followed with the green flash at the end. At swizzle time, we had a wine and cheese party - everyone on board participated by buying a bottle of "cheap" wine on Tuesday at St. Barth's. We then played Sea Hunt, a sea-going version of Treasure Hunt. After dinner we had the traditional costume party and a wonderful time was had by all. |
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| Friday, February 27, 1998 - Nevis - Woke to another day in Paradise! Found the storyboard to decide the activity for the day…our options were an Island Tour, snorkeling trip or another rainforest hike. Bill and I, along with Gail and Bruce, opted for the Rainforest Hike. We went ashore and meandered around Charlestown for the morning, found the outlet for Caribelle Batik and spent more money. After lunch on board the ship, we headed out on the Rainforest hike. It turned out that this hike was much better than the one on St. Kitts. On this hike the trail was barely there most of the time and we scrambled up gullies and down washes, over dry creek beds. Our guide was exceptionally knowledgeable, explaining the various plants and their uses. We saw monkeys and many birds, especially hummingbirds. There were many Kodak moments coming down from this hike, every turn brought a better vista than before. Nevis' peak was clearly visible and quite photogenic. |
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| This evening was the Captain's Dinner. As usual, the galley crew outdid themselves, especially Crispin, one of the stewards, who prepared a Caesar salad right before our eyes, with much fanfare! We set sail for Antigua during dinner and this time Amazing Grace brought tears to many eyes. After the second seating for dinner, dessert was Bananas Flambe' on deck. Everyone had a rousing good time and went to bed wishing it didn't have to end the next day. I'd like to commend Windjammer on a wonderful ship and crew. Annie, the purser, Bridgette, the Activities Mate and the rest of the crew made us feel right at home. Captain Casey was a trip and his right hand man, Paul, was a sweetheart. It will be a real shame when we lose these beautiful old tall ships to insurance regulations. |
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| Saturday, February 28, 1998 - Antigua - Since many people were leaving on early flights, breakfast was buffet style on the quarterdeck. There were many tearful goodbyes, as we had all made fast friends during the week's cruise. Our flight was originally scheduled for 9:05 on BWIA to Miami. We were bumped to 10:20 because so many people were flying out. This was one of the busiest times Antigua has seen in years. All because of the Eclipse! It appeared that we'd have enough time to clear customs and make our connection with American Airlines at 1:30 in Miami. That is, if the 10:20 flight left on time! Well, it was not to be. The flight left 40 minutes late, which would leave us about 30 minutes in Miami. No way could we clear customs, get our baggage, check in with American and make the connection. Not gonna happen! Our stewardess told us to go to the BWIA counter and they would take care of us. So we relaxed and enjoyed the flight to Miami. When we arrived at Miami it was 1pm. It took us 20 minutes to leave the plane, so as we were walking thru the terminal to customs we waved goodbye to the American Airlines plane leaving the gate at 1:30. We cleared customs, got our bags and headed to the American counter to see what they could do. The best they would do was put us on standby for the 7:20 pm flight to Philadelphia. Not the most appealing choice. We headed off to BWIA, since it was their problem anyway. After two trips to the counter, we ended up with First Class seats on the 4:35 flight on USAirways to Phila. What a treat! Since we usually fly "in the back", this was a wonderful surprise ending to an amazing vacation. |
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